Drywall is complete, primed and first coat of finish paint applied. Interior doors are hung and painted and millwork is being installed. Quick Step laminate floors installed in all bedrooms, hall, living room, dining room and kitchen. Tile flooring installed in bath and entries. Cabinets going in this week.
Not sure if anything jumped out at you in the above described, but there is NO carpet anywhere in this house. Whenever possible, we discourage the homeowner from adding carpet to help improve the Indoor Air Quality (IAQ). Carpet traps dust and allergens and reduces air quality in the home. We also add impervious (tile) flooring to entrances and bath areas for durability (LEED for Home requirement also).
Finally completed the hallway ducted mini-split head (1 of 2 total). Each head produces about 9000 btu’s with a peak of 11,ooo btu’s. Remember, our house was modeled based on thermal envelop and heating load at only 11.5000 btu’s, so the 1 ton mini-split is more than sufficient to provide our heating needs. We also designed the system so that it would be zoned – 1 head (ducted) that runs the length of the hallway with 1 supply register into each bedroom and an additional head (wall mounted) that supplies the main living area and kitchen. The beauty in this, is that the homeowner can call for heating/ cooling depending on which section of the house they will be occupying. i.e. – at night, they can heat or cool the bedrooms as they sleep and moderate the temperature in the living room/ kitchen and vice versa during the daytime hours. It is a much more efficient way to provide comfort and obviously is considerably less wasteful by not conditioning rooms that are not occupied!
Wall mount head – Kitchen/ Living/ Dining supply
Mini-Split ducted head and Return air
Mini-Spit duct – Hallway run and feeds
Ducted head line-set and condensation drain
Mini-Split ducted head access for service (through bedroom wall)
Condensation drain feeds to Utility Room washer discharge
Framed hallway ductwork (pre-drywall)
Framed ceiling beneath ducting for drywall finish
Supply boot to bedroom from main duct
Mini-Split access through bedroom
Line set(s) connection at unit
In addition to framing, exterior siding is another volunteer intensive project. The added furring strips over exterior foam really made installation much more managable by providing a great nailing surface for the vinyl. The difficult, or tricky part, was making sure we flashed properly around windows, doors and mechanical penetrations.
As with every new project we start, we modify and address issues with previous homes. Durablity and exterior water management become big issues in the longevity of a home, so we now build all new homes with concrete porches (instead of framed PT wood) and added 2′-0″ overhangs to the gable ends to extend the drip line away from the home. Properly flashing is a detail that cannot be overlooked and if done incorrectly, can cause the most significant damage to your new home (especially if the mistake is made and not easily visible). I get teased quite often around the jobsite because I’ve self designated myself as the QC (Quality Contol) inspector. The key is to identify the issue, talk through the solutions, and implement. It is also improtant that all trades subs and on-site supervisors have the same standards.
Foundation coating/ parging is required to cover ICF EPS foam at grade. I prefer to use an acrylic based product called Styro TUFF II. It is a troweled on, pre-mixed product (similar to stucco in an EIFS system) and applied over a peal and stick fiberglass re-inforced mesh that afixes to the foam. This protects the foam from weed timming, animals, pests, etc. We apply the product down about 9″ from mudsill, so the balance of the exposed ICF block below the TUFF II in the photo, will be covered with backfill at finish grade.
TUFF II foundation coating
TUFF II foundation coating